Dev Deepawali is an outdoor evening that begins in afternoon warmth and ends on open water after dark. Most visitors dress for the first half of that and regret it during the second.
The weather, honestly
Late November in Varanasi is one of the pleasanter times to be there. Days are mild and clear. But the temperature drops noticeably once the sun goes, and on the river — moving, over water, with nothing between you and the air — it feels colder still than it does on the bank.
Plan for two different evenings in one outfit.
What to wear
Layers, not one warm thing. A light jacket, shawl or stole you can put on and take off beats a heavy coat you will carry for four hours. A good shawl also doubles as a head covering where one is appropriate.
Cover shoulders and knees. Varanasi is a temple city and the fort is a royal residence. Modest dress is not enforced at every turn, but it is noticed, and it costs you nothing.
Flat, secure shoes. This is the one worth insisting on. Ghat steps are uneven and often damp, and boarding the cruise from the fort's ghat means climbing stairs. Anything you would not walk a mile in is the wrong choice. Guests need to be able to manage stairs independently or with someone accompanying them.
Something you would be happy photographed in. Indian festival dress photographs beautifully against lamplight, and a great many people will be taking pictures.
What to carry
- A shawl or light jacket for after sunset
- A power bank — phones drain fast in low light with the camera running
- A small torch, useful on unlit steps
- Any medication you need, since you will be out for the whole evening
- Cash in small notes, which is still the easiest currency at the ghats
What to leave behind
- Heels, and any shoe with a smooth sole
- Large bags — you will be on and off a boat
- Drones, which are not something to assume you may fly over a crowded riverfront
- Anything you would be upset to drop in the Ganges
If you are coming with family
The fort tour, the dining and the seating are arranged for comfort, with somewhere to sit throughout, and the private ghat and controlled boarding are considerably easier than the public ghats for older guests and for anyone travelling with children. The stairs at boarding remain the thing to plan around.
There is more in our frequently asked questions, and a full timeline of the evening on the curated tour page.
Akashganga 2026 runs Tuesday, 24 November, at Ramnagar Fort, Varanasi. Reserve your seats →
FAQ
What is the weather like in Varanasi in November?
Late November is one of the more comfortable times of year in Varanasi — mild, clear days. Temperatures drop noticeably after sunset, and it feels colder again out on the river, so layers are worth carrying.
What should I wear for Dev Deepawali in Varanasi?
Layers you can add after dark, clothing that covers shoulders and knees for a temple city and a royal residence, and flat, secure shoes. Ghat steps are uneven and boarding the cruise involves climbing stairs.
What should I carry to Dev Deepawali?
A shawl or light jacket, a power bank, a small torch for unlit steps, any medication you need for a full evening out, and cash in small notes.
Is Dev Deepawali suitable for children and older guests?
At Akashganga the tour, dining and seating areas are arranged for comfort with seating throughout, and private ghat boarding is far easier than the public ghats. Boarding does require climbing stairs, so guests must be able to manage stairs independently or with someone accompanying them.